11 March 2013

Australian business leaders keen to explore what it takes to lead courageously in the 21st century are convening next month in the inspiring and challenging environment of the Shackleton Epic Leadership Round Table.

Being held at the Sydney Opera House, the Shackleton Epic Leadership Round Table is a truly inspirational forum being led by Margot Morrell, who is one of America’s foremost business leadership experts, best-selling author of Shackleton’s Way, and a world authority on Sir Ernest Shackleton’s legendary leadership skills.

Margot will be joined by legendary Australian/British adventurer, Tim Jarvis AM, who has recently returned to Australia following the successful recreation of one of the greatest survival stories of all time. It will be the first time that Jarvis will speak publicly about his leadership experiences during the history-making Shackleton Epic expedition.

Tim Jarvis believes the Shackleton Epic Leadership Round Table is the perfect forum for an inspiring discussion about the key requirements for exceptional leadership in business.

“Shackleton’s motto, ‘by endurance we conquer’ is certainly key in today’s business environment but truly visionary leaders need much more than endurance to successfully navigate the enormous economic, social and environmental challenges facing us.

“I urge any Australian business leader wanting to make real progress in developing strategies for dealing with today’s social, environmental and economic issues to sign up to the 28-member Shackleton Epic Leadership Round Table,” Jarvis said.

The Shackleton Epic Leadership Round Table is presented in conjunction with the AFR’s BOSS Magazine and delivers a range of benefits for members including a full day workshop for two staff as well as the leadership round table and dinner. It is limited to 28 members, the same number who participated in Shackleton’s Endurance expedition almost 100 years ago. 

- Lord Byron

Before I started working on this expedition I had this romantic idea that I would be sitting up on deck, getting high on the Antarctic air, fingers dancing over my laptop keyboard like Fred and Ginger as glaciers rolled on by. Oh, how wrong I was! The unglamorous reality is that most of the time I was huddled in my bunk with my laptop, not having showered for 5 days, wearing clothes that looked suspiciously like the same clothes I wore yesterday and the day before that. There was a point in the journey where I avoided mirrors because I knew my reflection would scare me. I’ve filed stories from tree houses, trains and airports all over the world but this humdinger of a voyage had me beaten on many occasions. I was going to write a misery blog on how hard it’s been writing and taking photos in these conditions, but then I figured this is my last blog and I didn’t want to waste it on negativity. But for all the heavy times there were also days of buoyant happiness. I have fond memories of whale watching with the sponsors group – Intrepid Travel, St George Bank and Arup you have incredible people working for you. Watching the Alexandra Shackleton sail triumphantly into Peggotty Bluff was also a moment I’ll not soon forget. After watching her rise and fall with the Southern Ocean for 12 days, it was both a relief and a triumph to see her and the crew on land once again. Then there were the moments of genuine hilarity living and working aboard the Australis, a hardworking vessel run by a hardworking crew of Ben Wallis, Skye-Marr Whelan and Magnus O’Grady.  

After 50 days of living on the Australis we’ve just arrived in the Falklands. I am now ready to re-enter society, if society will have me. If the looks we just got from the local restaurant staff are anything to go by, then we’ve got some way to go before we are fit for integration into civilisation. I’ve had a shower and a bath just to be sure.

 Jokes aside, it’s been a privilege keeping everyone up to date with the Shackleton Epic story and the behind the scenes antics. Although I’ve had a limited internet connection, I’ve been told that the blog has been a good resource, especially for the family and friends of the Shackleton Epic team, so I hope in some small way I’ve managed to bring the Shackleton Epic to life for you all, wherever you are in the world. To everyone that came along for the ride, thanks for reading!

The support, comments and well wishes got me over the line when writing through storms, sickness and fatigue. While I’m happy to see the back of seasickness, I know I’m going to miss Antarctica dreadfully. It’s been my workplace and backyard for nearly two months now and it still has the ability to knock me off my feet both figuratively and literally (those katabatic winds can be brutal).

If you miss me, you can find me here: www.wordessence.com.au I’d love to hear from you all.

-          Jo Stewart, Shackleton Epic blogger

Jo Stewart interviewing Barry Gray at South Georgia. Image Jo Stewart/ Shackleton Epic	Jo Stewart on the Antarctic Peninsula Tour, onboard Australis. Image Jane Crouch/ Shackleton Epic	Magnus O'Grady and Jo Stewart onboard the zodiac. Image Jo Stewart/ Shackleton Epic	Shackleton Epic sponsor crew onboard Australis. Image Jane Crouch/ Shackleton Epic
Jo aboard the Alexandra Shackleton. Image Jo Stewart/ Shackleton Epic	Steve Lennon, Sky Marr-Whelan and Jo Stewart on the zodiac. Image Jane Crouch/ Shackleton Epic	Jo Stewart and Skye Marr-Whelan onboard Australis. Image Jane Crouch/ Shackleton Epic	Sponsor crew onboard the zodiac. Image Jane Crouch/ Shackleton Epic

Kim McKay, Momentum2, who engaged Jo Stewart to join the expedition, writes:

Jo, you’ve been amazing on so many levels and on behalf of the entire Shackleton Epic team, supporters, friends and family, thank you for bringing this extraordinary adventure to life for us all.

You’ve triumphed over sea sickness (who will forget the black bucket of shame), lack of sleep, tension on the high seas and mountain crossing, and not to mention the personal habits of the expedition and camera crews…we know why women are called a civilising influence on a society!

Your writing and photography skills are something to be very proud of and it has been a pleasure to have you aboard.  May the Shackleton Epic expedition be a great launching pad into fame and fortune for you and may the memories become more golden with the perspective of time.

To our readers, we’ll continue to post blogs and updates and post messages on Facebook and Twitter about Shackleton Epic throughout the year – letting you know how the team is doing, when the book is released, and when the brilliant three-part documentary series will air in your region….stay tuned.

Check the home page for the latest expedition update – www.shackletonepic.com 

Experience Antarctica for yourself with Intrepid Travel!  Click here for more info

Read Tim Jarvis' latest Fairfax/SMH/The Age exclusive blog post here

The Stromness Whaling Station, South Georgia. Image Tim Jarvis

Had we attempted the Shackleton 'double' as recently as 1962, a knock on the door of the manager’s house at Stromness would have met with a greeting….albeit in Japanese not Norwegian. When whaling in South Georgia was finally wound up in the mid-1960s the whole South Georgia whaling fleet could find only one solitary blue whale to kill down from more than 29,000 blue whales that were culled in the 1930-31[1]  season alone.

Man’s legacy has sadly left blue whale numbers at a fraction of what they were before whaling (perhaps 2,000 individuals today compared with the 300,000 prior). Ominously the decimation of whales is not, however, the main environmental issue facing Antarctica. Today it is man’s activities in the form of fossil fuel burning, land clearance and population growth all underpinned by over-consumption everywhere else on the planet that is the main threat.

Old whaling ships, Grytviken, South Georgia. Image Tim Jarvis

These forces have contributed to global climate change that in the western Antarctic has resulted in more than a 4degree C temperature rise since the mid-1950s. For the Shackleton Epic team climate induced glacier retreat meant a clamber over rocks from Peggotty Bluff to the Shackleton Gap rather than ice as Shackleton and his men experienced, with the glaciers of the natural amphitheatre of King Haakon Bay now hanging hundreds of metres above the sea rather than reaching the sea as they did in Shackleton’s day.

This unfortunately came as no surprise as we know that some 80% of the 160 glaciers of South Georgia are in retreat. When the expedition team finally reached Fortuna Bay prior to their final walk into Stromness it was the glacial meltwater of the Konig Glacier we had to negotiate and not its ice that now lies some 1km up the valley to the east. In short, our feet got wet not frozen.

Image credit: Jane Crouch/ Shackleton Epic

It is for this reason the Shackleton Epic team is working with Fauna & Flora International (FFI) as our conservation partner on projects like those that reduce deforestation in Africa, because it is projects like these that help sequester the carbon that so threatens Antarctica’s ice. To save Antarctica we must change the way we operate in the rest of the world.  

Having accomplished Shackleton’s journey of survival in saving his men from the Antarctic, the second part of the Shackleton double for me is surely to work to save Antarctica from man. To do this we need to take a leaf out of Shackleton’s book and pull together to achieve success against considerable odds as he did. 

Shackleton Epic is helping to raise funds to support FFI’s conservation work.  You can donate here.

Fauna & Flora International's work spans across the globe, with over 140 projects in over 40 countries, mostly in the developing world. FFI proudly stands up for biodiversity and aims to show just how relevant it is to all of those who share the planet.   Its president is Princess Laurientien, and vice-presidents are Sir David Attenborough and Stephen Fry.  Patron is Her Majesty, The Queen.   http://www.fauna-flora.org/

*When Tim Jarvis is not adventuring, he is an environmental scientist.  He currently lead’s Arup’s sustainability practice in Australia.

Without doubt this relates to having got closer to understanding what Shackleton went through on the original journey almost a century ago – the pain, fear, suffering and doubt that he and his men needed to overcome to achieve their incredible journey of survival. 

As winter approached, the majority of his men remained behind on Elephant Island clinging to life and no back-up existed, simply because no-one knew that he or his men were still alive – all of this after enduring a year and a half on the crippled Endurance and the floating pack ice of the Weddell sea. That we have managed to emulate some of this story and get close to the kind of determination he needed to win through is truly humbling.

That sense of humility however, also relates to a feeling of gratitude towards all of the supporters that enabled us to finally reach Stromness after five years of planning. I’m not going to list everyone here now but this includes our sponsors, supporters, advisers, broadcast partners, well-wishers, friends and of course family without which our journey would not have been possible.   

Nor would it have been the same without all of you following along, sending your messages of good will and encouragement….I wonder what Shackleton and his men would have made of a website, tracking devices, blogs, facebook and twitter feeds! 

I especially want to acknowledge the incredible support of Intrepid Travel, our presenting partner who have, since our first meeting, demonstrated great confidence in the expedition and I am looking forward to working with them in the future on a few more adventures.  Also, to my employer, Arup for giving me the time and support to undertake this epic project and to St.George Bank for being committed to adhering to and promoting Shackleton’s renowned leadership qualities.  And you’ve all read how we’ve enjoyed Mackinlay’s fine scotch whisky…I have to admit the odd drop can be quite sustaining when the chips are down.

If the majority of an iceberg remains hidden from view beneath the waves then so it is with this expedition. Six of us undertook the boat journey whilst 3 of us took the final steps into Stromness after a gruelling crossing of the mountains of South Georgia but we are all part of a much larger team, all of whom have played their part in our achievement and for that I will be eternally grateful. To you all I say our success is your success.

- by Tim Jarvis Expedition Leader. 

Check the home page for the latest expedition update – www.shackletonepic.com 

Experience Antarctica for yourself with Intrepid Travel!  Click here for more info

Read Tim Jarvis' latest Fairfax/SMH/The Age exclusive blog post here

Skipper Nick Bubb. Image credit: Ed Wardle/ Shackleton Epic

Part 3 of 3…

Eventually after 11 nights at sea, dawn broke and we could see land. We spent several hours sizing up the topography and eventually gained a little confidence in our position. We were about ten miles upwind of King Haakon Bay. This was ideal and roughly where we expected to be so we hoisted our sea anchor and set off. As we closed on the headland, the wind dropped and started to move forward of the beam. Slowly we got sucked in to the cliffs and were drifting on to them.

This was quite easily the worst part of the whole voyage for me and we came very close to realising my worst fear ever since I signed up to this Expedition. We were stuck on a rocky lee shore and the chart notes read ‘outlying rocks, uncharted, avoid’. At this point due to the curvature of the coast we had no option to tack out again and not being able to sail upwind we were trapped. Our only hope was to inch along the coast.

I sent all the crew below except for Paul and got them to move forward to try to dig the bow in a little and reduce the leeway. We also all put on lifejackets and readied the grab bag.  I wasn’t going to ask for a tow at this point and ruin all our hard work and clearly the Australis wasn’t going to come in to an uncharted rocky coastline so we parted ways.

The Alexandra Shackleton approaches South Georgia. Image Jo Stewart Shackleton Epic

For the next couple of hours Paul and I took turns to gently coax the AS along the rocks, at times feeling the swell back off the cliffs, ironically just as Shackleton did although he was in a lot more wind.  Time and again we passed inside breaking rocks, which were real ‘heart in the mouth’ moments. At times we were so close we thought about getting the oars out but in the confused swell it would have been a mess.  In the end we scraped through and could breathe again. The rest of the sail up the Bay and into Peggotty Bluff where Shackleton finally landed, and left the James Caird, was a joy.

On hitting the beach, Paul and I jumped out into the surf with Tim steering her gently up the shingle beach. I fell over due to a combination of land sickness and numb feet and pretty much ended up lying down with relief amongst the elephant seals. All incredible and surreal emotions.

Leaving Tim, Ed and Baz, our three vintage mountaineers to make camp on the beach, Seb, Paul and I secured the AS and returned to the Australis to recover and prepare ourselves for the role of support team in modern kit for the crossing of South Georgia.

After a few beers onboard and with the adrenalin fading, we slowly began to investigate our bodies. I’d been aware that my feet had been numb since we left KGI on 21^st January and it was now nearly two weeks later. During the trip I had been conscious of the problem and removed my boots after each watch to try my best to dry and re warm them. Ironically my feet never really got that wet. Our leather boots were pretty lightweight with thin soles but after mountains of dubbin had been applied, they were actually pretty water resistant. The main problem with our feet was simply time spent cold on deck, especially at night when it was coldest and the fact we were always standing in an inch or two of water or on a very cold floor.

This, coupled with the fact that when down below it was physically impossible to stretch out, meant my circulation didn’t stand a chance.

Shackleton Epic crew bringing Alexandra Shackleton onshore at South Georgia. Image Jo Stewart

As the voyage went on Paul and I took over most of the helming duties especially at night as it was becoming more and more important we steer an accurate course to increase the accuracy of our estimated positions.  This extra time on deck was certainly to prove my downfall and Ed, our cameraman, suffered similarly.

Amazingly Paul seems have escaped with his feet still working but has some similar cold injuries to his hands where as mine are fine.  Seb’s feet are sore too but for now Baz and Tim are ok.  Paul’s feet aside, there is a pretty clear correlation between hours spent on deck and the condition of our feet and hands.

As I’m writing this in my bunk, it is now some 4 or 5 days since we arrived at Peggotty Bluff at the head of King Haakon Bay and still I’ve got no feeling in any of my toes. Our onboard Doctor, Alexander Kumar, has been amazing and is looking after me very well. We went for a walk to see if there was any chance of making the crossing and it was immediately apparent that this wasn’t an option. I couldn’t walk for more than an hour without significant pain and this was without my 30 Kg backpack. Once we removed my boots, my toes were red and swollen, nothing dramatic but the damage was inside.

Dr Kumar then sent pictures and comprehensive details of my symptoms to his UK based colleagues- various medical experts who specialize in cold weather injuries. The responses were astounding; they agreed with his assessment that I have a Non-Freezing Cold Injury (NFCI) and the symptoms are very similar to those the soldiers suffered during the Falklands conflict. Another poignant reminder of just how much we owe to heroes of the past.

To summarise, all in agreement, it would have been foolhardy to go into the mountains and would compromise myself or the others. There was also a chance I may lose my toes and part of my feet if I did.  Pretty strong stuff… this made the decision not to continue very easy and in fact Dr Kumar refused to sign me off anyway so my insurance may not have been valid even if I’d been mad enough to go. Whilst very disappointed not to be making the crossing, I want to be able to walk off the plane when we get home in a few weeks time. 

For now I’m confined to my bunk with my feet elevated and it seems the sensations are slowly returning. With each day, there are shooting pains but this can only be good and a sign the nerves are still alive and battling back.

Looks like rugby is going to be off the menu when I get home but hopefully I won’t be hobbling around for long. The reality is you can’t come down to Antarctica, strap on some 100 year old clothing and sail across the Southern Ocean in a 23 foot rowing boat without expecting to suffer a bit of discomfort. I’ve spent many weeks in the Southern Ocean before but always in modern kit, with a chance of re warming my feet and with a bunk to stretch out in. Being deprived of all these comforts has been enlightening.

Check the home page for the latest expedition update – www.shackletonepic.com 

Experience Antarctica for yourself with Intrepid Travel!  Click here for more info

Read Tim Jarvis' latest Fairfax/SMH/The Age exclusive blog post here

The Shackleton Epic crew and patron The Hon. Alexandra Shackleton at Sir Ernest Shackleton's gravesite, Grytviken, South Georgia. Image Jo Stewart/ Shackleton Epic

Yesterday marked a very significant part of the expedition – we were all able to pay our respects to ‘the Boss’, wish him a happy birthday and reflect on his legacy at his final resting place. We also got to drink whisky and soak up some sunshine, so it’s safe to say there’s a few sore heads aboard the Australis today!

Shackleton’s grave is beautifully simple. Perched midway up an emerald green hill, with panoramic views of Grytviken harbour, a quote from his favourite poet Robert Browning etched into the gravestone and Frank Wild buried next to him – the great man deserved nothing less than some of the best views in the world and to be buried with his comrade and brother in arms beside him. The ceremony and toast was attended by Sir Ernest Shackleton’s granddaughter Alexandra Shackleton, who travelled all the way from the UK to Grytviken aboard the Vavilov to mark the occasion. High winds stopped an earlier arrival, but by now we are all accustomed to the delicate dance we do down here with the local weather systems.  We know the steps all too well and the futility of getting annoyed with something that we can’t change or influence in any way. After a few words from both Tim and Alexandra, the Mackinlay’s whisky was brought out to toast the success of the Shackleton Epic expedition and the memory of Shackleton. The toast was accompanied by a unique yet apt soundtrack: a chorus of elephant seal grunts and the whistle of the wind. Everyone then poured the last of their whisky on Shackleton’s grave, as is customary. To have this ceremony at the conclusion of our expedition and just a few hours shy of Shackleton’s birthday was the perfect finale to an epic adventure and something we’ve all been looking forward to for quite some time.

Shackleton Epic crew at Sir Ernest Shackleton's gravesite with onlookers. Image Jo Stewart/Shackleton Epic

Earlier on in the day, Baz Gray collected a few key items of the Shackleton Epic expedition for donation to the impressive, little museum at Grytviken. The museum houses memorabilia and paraphernalia from Shackleton’s expedition, as well as items from other expeditions and equipment used in the now defunct whaling industry. A total of 31 items were donated and included the Primus stove used to cook meals on the Alexandra Shackleton, the prismatic compass used to navigate, an old harness and climbing rope used on the mountain crossing, the main sheet from the Alexandra Shackleton, a vintage-style mountain backpack and Seb’s pipe and tobacco tin. Additionally, the lads donated a full set of vintage style clothing including a windproof outer layer, helmet, woollen under layers, balaclava, gloves and the boots Baz wore on the mountain crossing.

Even though we are now motoring away from Grytviken towards the Falklands, I’ve still got South Georgia on my mind. Its stripped-back beauty is incomparable to anywhere else in the world. It’s a place where elephant seals bask in the sun in all their lardy glory, juvenile fur seals scamper about along the windy shore and clusters of penguins gad about in groups on the green hills. It’s also a place of danger – gusting winds can knock you down with no warning, glaciers can crumble and ice can crack underfoot. Humans have left their mark on South Georgia, evidenced by the rusty remnants of the whaling days, but overall, it remains largely untouched and the dominion of the local wildlife – may it continue to for many years to come.       

- by Jo Stewart, Shackleton Epic blogger 

Check the home page for the latest expedition update – www.shackletonepic.com 

Experience Antarctica for yourself with Intrepid Travel!  Click here for more info

Read Tim Jarvis' latest Fairfax/SMH/The Age exclusive blog post here

Skipper Nick Bubb. Image credit: Jo Stewart/ Shackleton Epic

Generally, as far as the weather went, we were very lucky. Apart from right at the end we never had to sail upwind and we only went through one major storm. We were able to sail downwind during this period of bad weather and it only lasted for around 36 hours and I doubt the wind ever topped 50 knots.

The sea state was rough but not crazy and the boat handled the conditions incredibly well, never did I feel in danger of being rolled which was our main concern. Probably the worst thing about it all on deck was the physical toll of steering. It took two men to control the steering lines and countless times I asked myself why Shackleton never put a tiller on the boat.

The fantastic condition that the Alexandra Shackleton  was in after the voyage was astounding and a great credit to all the incredibly hard work Seb, the expedition bosun has put in over the years and also to the International Boatbuilding Training College (Lowestoft) who were responsible for her construction. Thanks are also due to many volunteers along the way.

Surprisingly old vintage clothing served us pretty well and whilst we all got damp and pretty wet, I wouldn’t describe our under layers as soaking.  Our woollen layers were uncomfortable and restrictive but they did do a decent job of keeping us warm. The cotton gabardine outers that we had smeared in Dubbin also held up ok and certainly kept the wind out.

They became incredible heavy though and the fear of being in the water wearing all that kit was significant. I never once changed any of my kit other to remove my outer smock when possible and boots when off watch. We had no spare kit, there simply wasn’t room.

Down below however things were predictably heinous. We were all struggling significantly with nausea, lethargy and dehydration along with the problems caused by not being able to cook. Life reduced to very simple operations and we were all extremely grateful for good weather on day four.  This also allowed us to take our first sun sight at midday and calculate our latitude. We were pretty happy with the sight so we slightly readjusted our position to this new fix.

To try and keep this blog short, I won’t go into too many details of the navigation but essentially this was our only fix until the day before we arrived at King Haakon Bay although we did manage to get the odd sight whenever the sun poked its head out but we never got enough information to secure a position fix, only a position line.

Alexandra Shackleton approaches pack ice leaving from Elephant Island at the start of the Shackleton Epic expedition. Image Jo Stewart Shackleton Epic

Our routine was Paul ‘shooting’ the sun’s altitude with Seb calling out the time from our mighty impressive chronometer and I would then take a note of all the vital numbers before starting to crunch them. Invariably this would take me around 30 minutes to do bearing in mind the cramped and bouncy circumstances and then Paul and I would go through all of my calculations together checking for small errors which are so easy to make. Finally when agreed, we would plot the results on the chart, often we’d laugh and re work things but by the end we were pretty confident our technique was good.

Miles slowly ticked off but all the time our uncertainty was growing, as the cloud cover was too much for any real fixes. We did manage to take a few sights but you require several sights ideally spaced out throughout the middle of the day to actually get a fix. As it turned out we never achieved this until we were 35 miles from King Haakon Bay, our final destination. The crucial sight here was taken at local noon and only minutes after we took it, the visibility closed in.

There was an audible sense of relief that our estimated position vaguely stacked up with our astro calcs and that we were so close to the end. This coupled with the fact we had maintained the ‘weather gauge’ meant we were looking good.

However… the weather gods still had two massive cards to play. The fog that rolled in just after our noon sight, stayed for two days and we had little option but to wait it out. As we were to discover, patience is a key weapon in the traditional navigator’s armory and not something Paul and I are overly blessed with.

Part three to come….

Check the home page for the latest expedition update – www.shackletonepic.com 

Experience Antarctica for yourself with Intrepid Travel!  Click here for more info

Read Tim Jarvis' latest Fairfax/SMH/The Age exclusive blog post here

(this is an edited version of a note Nick wrote from his bunk to his family – we’ll continue to post the rest of his great story)

Shackleton Epic skipper Nick Bubb. Image credit: Paul Larsen/ Shackleton Epic

The Shackleton Epic Expedition began for real on 21^st January 2013.  We left King George Island in the early evening with 15 to 20 knots from the west and forecast to slowly ease. It was a magical moment as we sailed out of Admiralty Bay. With the sun going down, we negotiated small bergs like we’d been doing it for years. Due to the significant space issues onboard we’d decided that just Paul, Ed and I would be onboard for the delivery to the start of this Expedition, Elephant Island.

We picked up a tow from the Australis as the wind died and headed off North East to Elephant Island, which was 120 miles away. It was a shame not to sail the whole way but this was always the plan and the only way we could get a suitable weather window to leave KGI and make the landing at Elephant Island.

With a good deal of detailed planning prior and great work from the crew of the Australis we arrived at Elephant Island 24 hours later with no dramas along the way.  We spent a night at anchor in a small cove on the south side of the island before rounding Cape Valentine, where Shackleton first landed, in the morning. A few miles west and we were at Point Wild where his men set up camp and were to remain for four months before being rescued.

It was an incredible experience to be there and to see just how small and exposed this tiny headland is. To think they survived a winter there is quite simply amazing. We were very lucky to be able to even get close to the shore let alone land and the ice floating ominously around the shore was a stark reminder. We were between two storms and the sea was calm but still there was a residual swell.

We all went ashore via Zodiac to recce the beach and meet the locals. It was pretty tough to find any space amongst the penguins and the seals but it was a privilege to be there and we all enjoyed the moment.

To land the Alexandra Shackleton (AS) was almost impossible, the beach has retreated and after significant erosion is even more rocky than when Shackleton was there. We decided to return to the Australis and row the AS ashore. 

As we got in close we opted to back up to the rocks and Paul stretched out an oar to touch one and make physical contact with the island before our departure. We then rowed directly north away from the island and once clear of the ice we hoisted sails. I wouldn’t say it was emotional but it was certainly exciting and Paul  & I kept exchanging nervous laughter. It was all a bit surreal to be honest. The enormity of it all was just too big to take in.

The first night was spent dodging small brash ice and an extremely impressive tableau iceberg around 3 miles long and 100 foot high.  The wind was light and it took an age before I finally relaxed and we got round the windward side of the berg. Trust me, getting round anything to windward on the Alexandra Shackleton is a huge achievement!

With light winds from the south we slowly ‘punched’ north averaging around 3 knots and were pleased to estimate our first 24 hour run to be around 75 miles.

The routine was two watches of three hours, one run by me and the other by Paul. Baz and Seb were a team and Ed and Tim the other. These two teams then spent 1.5 hours with me and 1.5 hours with Paul. Offset watches for continuity was the idea.

Generally we all settled in well over the next few days, conditions were ok onboard and apart from Baz and Seb seeming to have to permanently fight to get the Primus stove going, we were doing alright. The ‘space issue’ had become our entire world however and the entire trip would probably best be described as a 3D version of Twister or human spaghetti.  Whilst it was possible to get two in the cockpit, the reality was that one was easier. Three could just about sleep below but nobody could stretch out and the two guys on standby just crouched below the hatch.

Skipper Nick Bubb. Image credit: Ed Wardle/ Shackleton Epic

Every three hours Paul and I debated how many miles we’d sailed and in what direction before writing it up in the log.  We’d then plot our estimated position every 12 hours and report this back to the Australis. This whole process was not as straightforward as it sounds though. Firstly, we had to guess our average boatspeed and heading, then factor in magnetic variation, any leeway made, the current and usually a few gut feel fudge factors to incorporate differences in helming ‘style’ and ability.

Looking back on our estimates with the Skipper of the Australis now, it is incredible how well we did, although it should be highlighted that most of our accurate guess work was when sailing downwind. It all went a bit awry when we had a day of sailing upwind and therefore started making leeway. This, together with more difficult helming conditions for the less experienced sailors made the task significantly more difficult. 

Experience Antarctica for yourself with Intrepid Travel!  Click here for more info

Read Tim Jarvis' latest Fairfax/SMH/The Age exclusive blog post here

LtoR Ed Wardle, Nick Bubb, Tim Jarvis, Barry Gray, Seb Coulthard and Paul Larsen. Image Jo Stewart/Shackleton Epic

The post-expedition eating and sleeping fest continues with most crew performing their duties in fine form.  Overnight Baz performed a stealth mission on the fruit bowl, eating half its contents whilst everyone was asleep. Epic movie marathons are also popular, especially with the bed bound crew members who are recovering from injuries. Although they’ve got pain and boredom to contend with, they are being taken care of very well with bowls of chocolate mousse and cups of tea being delivered to their bunks.

We’ve spent the last 24 hours anchored at Peggotty Bluff – it’s been such a treat to be on a boat that isn’t moving. The constant motion really wears you down and I think all members of the expedition team are looking forward to a time where we can make breakfast or shower without being thrown around. After such an intense couple of weeks, it’s been rejuvenating to laze around a bit, have a laugh, listen to music and sleep in without feeling guilty about it.

It feels like we can all breathe again after a time of being on high alert. During the expedition the support team were sleeping in shifts – waiting for radio calls, filming, blogging, and on watch.

LtoR Barry Gray and Ed Wardle enjoying real food. Image Jo Stewart/Shackleton Epic

A veil of constant uncertainty hung over all of us, but now it’s party time! Just hours ago we got stuck into some celebratory Wagyu steaks that we’ve been saving for this moment. Magnus from the Australis did a top job on barbecuing the steaks to perfection amid one of the most spectacular backdrops one could possibly barbecue to. And if this wasn’t enough, right on cue a sunset for the ages shone its amber glory on us all. Right now, the guys are in the saloon indulging in some Mackinlay’s whisky and song – lucky I brought some ear plugs!

Magnus cooking steaks aboard Australis. Image Jo Stewart/Shackleton Epic

They better not stay up too late though, as tomorrow morning at 3am we are setting off towards Grytviken, towing the Alexandra Shackleton behind us. In a way, visiting Shackleton’s grave is the culminating moment of the whole expedition and doing so close to his birthday adds extra meaning. Stay tuned for updates and pics from Grytviken.     

-          Jo Stewart, Shackleton Epic blogger

Check the Daily Update on the home page for more expedition details.

Experience Antarctica for yourself with Intrepid Travel!  Click here for more info

Read Tim Jarvis' latest Fairfax/SMH/The Age exclusive blog post here

– Ansel Adams

LtoR Expedition Leader Tim Jarvis and mountaineer Barry Gray arrive at Stromness 2245 GMT 10 Feb. Image Jo Stewart Shackleton Epic

I don’t think it’s a coincidence that the guys completed ‘the epic’ on the same day that the sun made a rare but welcome appearance.  There have been many coincidences on this journey filled with fated moments, synchronicity and poetic justice. But after days of low visibility, the day they arrive and complete the journey, the sun decides to cast its golden glow on all of us. For Tim, Baz and Paul it no doubt helped them on their trek and for us on the support vessel it was a great morale booster.         

"Man love" - Tim Jarvis and Paul Larsen embrace after arriving at Stromness. Image Jo Stewart/ Shackleton Epic

Their arrival came late at night. We knew this would probably be the case because Ed Wardle’s eagle eye had caught a sight of them through binoculars in the afternoon, so we knew how far away they were and guestimated the time to head ashore to meet them.

With the light fading it was hard to find them, but soon enough we spotted them trundling towards us, walking at a good, steady pace. It was a relief for all of us, but none more so than Tim, Baz and Paul, who have had their eyes doggedly fixed on Stromness for so very long. They arrived to cheers all round from their fellow crewmates, Nick, Ed and Seb, and the calls of the seals and penguins that call Stromness home.

Tim Jarvis removes his boots after completing a gruelling three-day crossing of South Georgia. Image Jo Stewart/Shackleton Epic

Time spent celebrating on the beach was minimal such was their desperation to get their uncomfortable boots and sodden clothes off. The lure of a hot shower, food and a comfortable bed outweighed just about everything else.  A part of my job is to interview the crew and record some quotes for use in media and on the website and blog. Usually, this isn’t too hard, but last night it took a while to get a quote out of anyone that didn’t include swearing. Such are the challenges of working on an expedition!  

As soon as the guys hit the Australis they spun off in different directions. Baz destroyed the edible contents of the kitchen in what can only be described as a festival of eating. At last count he had demolished some macaroni and cheese, a plate of sausages, mash, peas and gravy, a loaf of bread, ice cream and other miscellaneous leftovers stored in the fridge. Paul completed what would have to be one of the world’s fastest transitions from being fully clothed in drenched adventure gear to being wrapped up in a blanket in bed. When I went to check on him, all I could see was one of the happiest faces in the world poking out from the blankets, his thousand watt smile not dimmed in the slightest by the arduous journey.

Tim was sent up on deck to do media interviews via sat phone (the only place we can get coverage on the boat). That didn’t last long as Tim fell sound asleep on deck in the darkness and freezing cold, with his sat phone in his hand – a sign of how exhausted these guys are.

But the exhaustion isn’t limited to the crew of the Alexandra Shackleton. While they no doubt have been pushed to their absolute limits, the support crew deserve a big shout out too. Ben, Skye and Magnus from the Australis have been there every step of the way – getting us through Southern Ocean storms, doing countless zodiac boat runs to the shore, monitoring radio calls, feeding us and putting up with all manners of delirium (mostly coming from me). They too have been stretched to their limits but you’d never know it – their professionalism is only matched by their genuine love of sailing in this part of the world. The film crew from Raw TV have a work ethic that is the stuff of legend – Jamie Berry, Si Wagen and Joe French seem to be able to operate on minimal sleep and food. I’m beginning to think they’re not really humans, but androids built to sense and hone in on the action at a moments notice. I’m convinced they run on batteries just like their cameras! They’ve been drenched, chilled to the core, snowed on, blown over off their feet by wind gusts, chased by packs of seals, slammed by sea sickness and propelled around the Australis by rogue waves, but they shrug it all off, have a laugh and head off in pursuit of the next shot. And of course, let’s not forget the expedition doctor Dr Alex Kumar who not only has been involved in making the documentary, but has also taken such very good care of everyone on board. He’s pulled me out of some savage bouts of seasickness and for that I’m very grateful.

Right now, there are bodies sleeping everywhere aboard the Australis as we motor towards King Haakon Bay to retrieve the Alexandra Shackleton. We’re travelling through some swell once again and my old nemesis seasickness is back to haunt me, so I carry the ‘black bucket of shame’ with me, but hopefully not for much longer. From here, we will make a move towards Grytviken to pay our respects to ‘the Boss’, a moment that will no doubt be poignant for all of us.           

-          by Jo Stewart, Shackleton Epic blogger

Check the Daily Update on the home page for more expedition details.

Experience Antarctica for yourself with Intrepid Travel!  Click here for more info

Read Tim Jarvis' latest Fairfax/SMH/The Age exclusive blog post here