Over and Out
There is a pleasure in the pathless woods,
There is a rapture on the lonely shore,
There is society, where none intrudes,
By the deep sea and music in its roar:
I love not man the less, but Nature more..
- Lord Byron
Before I started working on this expedition I had this romantic idea that I would be sitting up on deck, getting high on the Antarctic air, fingers dancing over my laptop keyboard like Fred and Ginger as glaciers rolled on by. Oh, how wrong I was! The unglamorous reality is that most of the time I was huddled in my bunk with my laptop, not having showered for 5 days, wearing clothes that looked suspiciously like the same clothes I wore yesterday and the day before that. There was a point in the journey where I avoided mirrors because I knew my reflection would scare me. I’ve filed stories from tree houses, trains and airports all over the world but this humdinger of a voyage had me beaten on many occasions. I was going to write a misery blog on how hard it’s been writing and taking photos in these conditions, but then I figured this is my last blog and I didn’t want to waste it on negativity. But for all the heavy times there were also days of buoyant happiness. I have fond memories of whale watching with the sponsors group – Intrepid Travel, St George Bank and Arup you have incredible people working for you. Watching the Alexandra Shackleton sail triumphantly into Peggotty Bluff was also a moment I’ll not soon forget. After watching her rise and fall with the Southern Ocean for 12 days, it was both a relief and a triumph to see her and the crew on land once again. Then there were the moments of genuine hilarity living and working aboard the Australis, a hardworking vessel run by a hardworking crew of Ben Wallis, Skye-Marr Whelan and Magnus O’Grady.
After 50 days of living on the Australis we’ve just arrived in the Falklands. I am now ready to re-enter society, if society will have me. If the looks we just got from the local restaurant staff are anything to go by, then we’ve got some way to go before we are fit for integration into civilisation. I’ve had a shower and a bath just to be sure.
Jokes aside, it’s been a privilege keeping everyone up to date with the Shackleton Epic story and the behind the scenes antics. Although I’ve had a limited internet connection, I’ve been told that the blog has been a good resource, especially for the family and friends of the Shackleton Epic team, so I hope in some small way I’ve managed to bring the Shackleton Epic to life for you all, wherever you are in the world. To everyone that came along for the ride, thanks for reading!
The support, comments and well wishes got me over the line when writing through storms, sickness and fatigue. While I’m happy to see the back of seasickness, I know I’m going to miss Antarctica dreadfully. It’s been my workplace and backyard for nearly two months now and it still has the ability to knock me off my feet both figuratively and literally (those katabatic winds can be brutal).
If you miss me, you can find me here: www.wordessence.com.au I’d love to hear from you all.
- Jo Stewart, Shackleton Epic blogger
Kim McKay, Momentum2, who engaged Jo Stewart to join the expedition, writes:
Jo, you’ve been amazing on so many levels and on behalf of the entire Shackleton Epic team, supporters, friends and family, thank you for bringing this extraordinary adventure to life for us all.
You’ve triumphed over sea sickness (who will forget the black bucket of shame), lack of sleep, tension on the high seas and mountain crossing, and not to mention the personal habits of the expedition and camera crews…we know why women are called a civilising influence on a society!
Your writing and photography skills are something to be very proud of and it has been a pleasure to have you aboard. May the Shackleton Epic expedition be a great launching pad into fame and fortune for you and may the memories become more golden with the perspective of time.
To our readers, we’ll continue to post blogs and updates and post messages on Facebook and Twitter about Shackleton Epic throughout the year – letting you know how the team is doing, when the book is released, and when the brilliant three-part documentary series will air in your region….stay tuned.
Check the home page for the latest expedition update – www.shackletonepic.com
Experience Antarctica for yourself with Intrepid Travel! Click here for more info
Read Tim Jarvis' latest Fairfax/SMH/The Age exclusive blog post here
Just totally amazing – te whole bloody lot of you! So very proud.
Thanks Jo,
Your words & updates were great.
Andy
Thank you Jo, Sky and everyone at the Australis Crew…you are the ones who kept us going top up here…your marvellous blogs and updates show your
tremendous efficiency and professionalism. Thank you!! I am so proud to have been part of it too in spirit and i will miss you terribly…it's been such an adventure for
us all…well you now know who i am…i followed you like a hawk…i sent you all the best energy a mother could…there i was with you at all hours…for so
i love my Private Ryan…Cheers…i salute you with all love…may Mother Nature always protect you. Love and blessings. Sylvie. Roger and out…x x x x x
Have you seen Seb doing his Ace Ventura antics?? Ho ho…
Thank you Jo for all your updates. It has been great watching it all happen. My thoughts were with you all,
Winston Nickols, Penguin, Tas. (Wilkes 1968)
The Shackleton Epic 2013
a Poem by Sylvie Coulthard – with love and respect
Let me relate to you how it all was:
this little boat was going to carry
the lives of six brave and strong men….
she like their patron was called
Alexandra Shackleton,
they made it with love and with
Baltic Pine, Rock Elm, Scottish Larch
and fully grown English Oak
wrapped it in GB's flag
It was launched at sea…
on March 2012
When its journey started
at Elephant Island
it stood up high above the
water and did not quiver
but commanded them into courage…
800 nautical miles
of glorious mystery and sea
9 metre swells,
there were bouts of sea sickness
and the Primus refused to be lit
reindeer hair everywhere…
soaked to the bone
It tested the human spirit
It tested the human endurance
Antarctica
Tim, Baz, Peter, Nick, Seb and Ed
manoeuvred the little boat
with legendary skill and tenacity…
Nick its captain and Peter the Navigator
Seb the Bosun, Ed the cameraman….
Tim the leader, Baz the Mountaineer
ready they gazed up the sun and the stars
and armed with a little sextant
they calculated with the maths of God…
up she went carrying them with pride
as they became the heroes of the day…
Arriving at King Haakon Bay
after its triumphant 12-day journey
across tumultous waters
and southern seas ferocious winds…
an albratross came to visit them
and listen to the sea shanty singing…
they had a group hug in Shackleton's way…
with strength and determination
the explorers continued up
the mountains of South Georgia…
the weather was stormy and foggy
as they wore the original clothes…
up they go Tim and Baz
across the Murray Snowfield
from the Trident to Crean Glacier
through Breakwind Gap…
then the Reindeer saw them
in their strife to Fortuna Bay
Stromness
Gento Penguins welcomed them
and so did the fur Seals
Tim and Baz arrived with frozen feet
and the Baton of Hope in all
Its luminosity…
they all met up with those
left behind…feet hurt
but faces smiled in glory…
long live the Shackleton Epic heroes
and those at the Australis!
Jo sending news and updates
to the whole world
Hurrah to Shackleton!
At Grytviken the lucky six
paid their dutiful respects
to the Boss memory…
together with his granddaughter…
Lady Alexandra Shackleton…
Then donated to the museum
bits and pieces…
and celebrated with Shackleton’s
whiskey…those caskets found
one hundred years later…
You were all in our thoughts
heroes and friends
brothers at sea…
day and night
we shared your joys and pains
your thrills and your elation
and now the world honours
you all….
You have risen awareness
to Antarctica’s Ecology…
and the penguins thank you…
Hurrah to the Alexandra Shackleton crew
and to the Australis crew…Hurrah !
With love from Sylvie
A big thank-you Jo for your enthralling blogs and fabulous photos, covering this extraordinary adventure. After just 10 wonderful days on the Australis with you and the team (in my Intrepid Travel sponsor rep role), I've been racing to the internet at every opportunity to follow the expedition – and your tales have offered a wonderful quenching to my thirst to know how the guys are going and how you and the wonderful Australis crew are fairing. I was reading Worsley's diaries at the time …and had to do double takes at times to check what I was thinking had just happened with the guys, or had happened nearly 100 years ago! Either way there were so many parallels from reindeer hair in the dinner to incredible courage and teamwork demonstrated daily.
As Kim attests, you've done an fantastic job – and I hope along with amazing future adventure opportunities they're punctuated with some great and well-deserved cushy 5 star resort reviews.
A big thanks to Sylvie too! I've delighted in your reflections and observations of the activities of your most lovely multi-talented son (who was a wonderful host when we sponsor guys were about) and for the abundant love you have shared for all the team.
I will miss you all …and will continue to be inspired by Shackleton and the Epic team.
With love, Jane (Intrepid Travel)
Jane, thank you for the words above. I am preparing a set of various thank you notes and will post them here or at the Shackleton Epic in Facebook. I must say that
without the sponsorship things would not have happened at all as it was with Shackleton and his patrons. ~Thank you so much for all your kindness and generosity
and hope this remains in our minds for ever. These guys are first class and they have won a well deserved rest with their families. Jo, i suggest that you give us
some space somewhere to keep up posting the future MEMORIES AND REFLECTIONS AND THE SHACKLETON EPIC 2013 and i would to have a book published
with all these accounts…thank you Jo and everyone else that in one worthy way or another helped to the success of this expedition. All love and blessings amidst
the greatness of our Saved and Healed Mother Earth…the planet that sustains us and holds our astonishing species. Best regards. Sylv.
I meant to say " I would have liked " above. Many thanks. Great Expedition…bye foir now. x x x x x
Thanks so much forthe blogs Jo. We will miss waking up and going for the iPad to check for the latest updates. You described it all beautifully and madeus feel like we were with you! Amazing journey, fantastic achievements all around!!
Thanks again from us in ickleton UK
One door closes…
Jo, we will have the Gin and Tonics waiting for you just to keep the experience alive that little bit longer. The blogs have been inspiring and your anecdotes refreshing. I for one cannot wait to hear more on your daring escape from fur seals. Classic! Looking forward to having you home soon.
D x
Oh im so looking forward to see what you are all going to do next! Miss you…it was the fix of my day! Thank you all AS and Australis for such a thrilling experience…its opened up my eyes to the great Antarctic explorer and i continue to read and re read new stuff from Shackleton and his men, in the media, in blogs…i now have the Shackleton Fever…love forever your Mother Cormorant…lol